Wake-up makeup
(Nancy was interviewed for this article;
half way down are her FAQ's)
Permanent cosmetics mean never having to take
time to apply new color
By KRISTI L. GUSTAFSON, Staff writer
First published: Saturday, May 31, 2003
Angel Morrow doesn't have to bother applying
eyeliner each morning. It's already there, thanks to permanent
makeup -- a process in which dye is injected beneath the
skin, like conventional tattooing but not as deep.
For Morrow, between getting her 4-year-old
son and herself out the door early every weekday, time was
tight. Now the 29-year-old's post-shower ritual takes a
mere five minutes, down from 20.
Permanent makeup, also known as micropigmentation,
became popular in the United States nearly 20 years ago,
according to the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals.
Today the organization has 1,300 members nationwide, but
an exact count of how many people are performing micropigmentation
is impossible: In New York, as in most states, permanent
makeup technicians, unlike tattoo artists, are not required
to have a license.
Cosmetic micropigmentation procedures include
lip color, eyeliner and eyebrow enhancement.
"Permanent cosmetics is a huge time-saver,"
says Marjorie Grimm, publicity director and president of
SPCP. Busy women are the industry's main clients, especially
mothers who work outside the home. Locally, the primary
audience is 35- to 55-year-old women, according to the only
two permanent makeup technicians listed in the Capital Region
phonebook.
A tidy appearance: After hearing about micropigmentation
from friends, Morrow sought out permanent makeup two and
a half years ago for professional as well as personal reasons.
As a human-resource specialist and trainer for Eckerd drugstores,
she often gives group presentations, meaning a tidy appearance
is for her a job requirement.
"I don't have to worry about reapplying
my makeup or it smearing," says Morrow. Being a contact-lens
wearer also made her a prime candidate for micropigmentation,
as eye makeup can irritate contacts.
The fair-complexioned blonde had her eyebrows
done a light brown and had a slate-colored eyeliner applied.
"I wanted to get it done so bad,"
she says. "But I didn't just want to go into it not
knowing anything."
That's the right approach, experts say. Micropigmentation
is an invasive procedure and should not be undertaken lightly.
"If it's not done correctly, there is
an increased risk of infection," says Judith Mysliborski,
a dermatologist with Capital District Dermatology Associates
in Albany. Signs of infection include redness, excessive
swelling, tenderness or puss, she says, and infections need
to be treated with antibiotics, she says.
But, if done correctly, it can be cosmetically
enhancing, Mysliborski adds.
Taking the plunge: After researching the subject
and identifying local technicians, Morrow chose The Beauty
Parlour, Center for Permanent Make-Up in Clifton Park. After
a consultation, which included a patch test to make sure
she wouldn't have a allergic reaction, Morrow was set. (While
an immediate allergic reaction may not occur, one can occur
weeks, months or even years later, says Mysliborski.)
"I was a little nervous," Morrow
says. "But it didn't hurt at all."
The application process involves numbing the
area with a topical solution and injecting the color with
a fine needle. Morrow's procedure -- both brows and bottom-lid
eyeliner -- took about an hour.
There was a small amount of swelling afterward
but no pain, she says. Ice helped eliminate the swelling
within a day. "It felt like the tiniest little sting.
I barely felt a thing." The procedure cost $350. Morrow
is happy with the results.
"It looks so natural, and people never
know it's not real unless I tell them," she says. Another
plus: "My makeup isn't going anywhere when I swim or
exercise."
In fact, Morrow says she is so pleased with
the results that she had her top eyelids done Thursday and
is planning a routine touch-up for the rest of her face
-- three to five years from now.
"The skin's natural rejuvenation process
causes the makeup to fade eventually, especially because
the color is only penetrated a millimeter into the skin,"
says Joannie Mastroianni, owner of The Beauty Parlour, who
applied Morrow's permanent makeup. Tattoo ink, in contrast,
goes in about 2 millimeters. Also, tattoo ink is made from
carbon-based dyes, whereas pigmentation comes from iron
oxide, a product found in blood. Because micropigmentation
colors are formulated for the face, they are not as intense
as those used in tattoos, and have a lifespan of only five
to eight years.
Custom mixes: Pigments are custom-mixed to
create natural, subtle results.
"It's not like there's just brown, black
and blonde," says Laura Spratt, owner of A Unique Salon
in Latham, which also applies permanent makeup. "Just
like you customize someone's hair color or face makeup,
everyone has a slightly different hair and skin tone."
The treatment can be used to correct cosmetic
problems, such as sparse, overplucked or uneven eyebrows,
a pale or thin lash line or narrow, scarred or uneven lips,
says Spratt.
And sometimes the reasons are medical. About
a third of Spratt's clientele suffer from alopecia or hair
loss from long-term chemotherapy. Permanent makeup also
can camouflage scars and create the nipple and areola area
of the breast after a mastectomy or breast reduction. Other
clients have muscle disorders or weak eyesight that make
applying makeup difficult.
Sandy Boccio has multiple sclerosis. Her vision
is impaired, and the muscles in her right arm don't always
work properly, making it virtually impossible for her to
apply her own eyeliner.
"My husband used to tell me what a terrible
job I did," says the 59-year-old Westmere resident.
After having permanent eyeliner applied earlier this month,
she says, "Now I don't crab about doing my makeup each
morning.
"I'm so thrilled with it," she says.
"I feel so much better about the way my makeup looks,
and it's one less thing I have to worry about."
FACE VALUE
Where to get permanent makeup locally:
The Beauty Parlour, Center for Permanent Make-Up,
1548 Route 9, Clifton Park. 669-4239
A Unique Salon, 599 Watervliet Shaker Road,
Latham. 713-2023
CLOSER LOOK AT COSMETIC
TATTOOING
What is permanent makeup?
Permanent makeup goes by several names (micropigmentation,
intradermal pigmentation and dermapigmentation), which all
refer to the technique of cosmetic tattooing, similar to
that of body tattooing, which has been done for thousands
of years.
What can permanent makeup do?
Colored eyeliner can enhance your eyes and
make blue eyes appear bluer or green eyes look greener.
Lash enhancement gives the illusion of longer or darker
lashes. It fills in sparse or absent brows. Lips can be
made to look fuller and more youthful. Lipstick will no
longer run or wear off. A scar, blemish or bad feature can
be erased.
Does the application hurt?
Everyone has different tolerances to pain.
Good topical anesthetics are now available, which are typically
applied to the area being treated. The area becomes quite
numb and clients usually experience little discomfort.
Will I look good right away?
Yes, usually clients experience minimal or
no swelling or discoloration. If this does occur, it is
usually minor.
Will the pigment fade after the first application?
Yes, however this is normal. That's why one
or two touch-ups are sometimes recommended within two to
four weeks following the initial application.
Is it really permanent?
Once the pigment has been effectively deposited
in the dermal layer, pigment will always be there, even
if it is bleached out by the sun or other environmental
factors. It is not uncommon for a client to wish to have
a "refresher" touch-up a few years later to brighten
the existing color.
How long do the procedures take?
Usually at least an hour for each procedure,
which includes discussing color preferences, assess skin
tone, etc.
Do I need to do anything special after
I have micropigmentation?
You will be given instructions at the time
of treatment, most of which are common sense. Not following
directions can cause the pigment to lift or fade prematurely.
Should I bring anything special?
If you wish to match a lipstick or eyebrow
pencil, bring it.
Can I wear other makeup in addition to
my permanent makeup?
Yes. You can use cosmetics of any type or
color you choose (but only after the area has healed).
Is it possible to be allergic to the pigments?
Extensive research and testing has been done
by the medical and cosmetic industry to develop non-reactive
pigments. It's extremely rare to be allergic to the pigments.
Answers by Nancy LaTouche,
permanent-makeup technician and owner of the Always Look
Your Best, located in Corona del Mar, Calif. Her Web site
is http://www.alwayslookyourbest.com.
